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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.